Thanks for the suggestions last week. Because of the Giants' game all the joints near the embarcadero were slammed - Slanted Door, etc.
On the advice of a friend we went to Albona over in North Beach.
http://www.albonarestaurant.com/index.html
It has a small kitchen and dining room with a very unassuming storefront. It's in the middle of a neighborhood with no other commercial buildings on the street.
It was a great meal. The owner, who recently bought it from his uncle (the long time owner), is the head waiter. He knows the regulars by name and sits at their tables to chat and talk about wine.
I had fillets of fried sardines with glazed onions; pork loin stuffed with sauerkraut, prosciutto, apples, and plums, and a half order of the strudel con pasta fatta.
Good eats.