Quote:
Originally Posted by Archaea
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Some of us in my ward went out this morning to greet the day and the lovely swell that was battering the coast in SoCal.
The swells started pounding yesterday evening, but by today it was in full force.
Surfline reported certain SoCal breaks that normal hit 2-4 feet were reaching 7-8 feet.
We were at Huntington, 13th this morning by about 5:45AM and it was pretty crowded. I basically spent about 20 mins just paddling out to the lineup. The waves were reported at about 10-12 and I am not going to argue. Let's just say that by the time I reached the lineup, my arms were exhausted and I was scared out of my mind to even try to drop in on one of those things.
I hung out in the lineup talking to people for about 25 mins, rode 2 smaller ones, and then called it a day. At the office by 9.
However, the noise from the surf was loud, and it felt like bass pounding in your chest.
Some people in the lineup joked that the folks up in NorCal at Mavs must be in heaven. Sadly, it didnt work out today for one person up North.
I can say this much....admittedly, purely through extrapolation.......anyone who makes the half-hour paddle out and reaches the lineup at Mavs, surviving the ice cream swirl and foot cramps, is about 1000 times stronger than I will ever be. And anyone, and I mean ANYONE, who dares drop in on the cold black face that is Mavs, is bolder and braver than any wide receiver that crosses the middle, or any catcher who covers home to protect the plate, or just about any other athletic accomplishment I can think of.
Mavs is death at any second. It is cold and heartless and sucks you under. No matter how good I ever became, and i will never be that good, I dont think I would have the guts to try Mavs.
Eddie Would Go, though.